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France Revisited: Victor Hugo in Paris!

The more I read about Victor Hugo, the more I find in common with him: our family heritage both originate from Alsace, France; we both have worshipped in the Notre Dame Cathedral; we both have grandsons named George, and we both spent many hours reflecting in the Jardin des Plantes, located in the Latin Quarter of Paris.

In the fall semester of 2012, during a graduate internship at the Sorbonne, I rented an apartment on rue Linné with Arenes des Lutece in my backyard and the Jardin des Plantes across the street. I spent many afternoons walking the quiet bucolic, flower-laden paths of this park taking in the heavenly aroma of God’s creation.

Jardin des Plantes! My respite!
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My winter wonderland! Jan 2013


Hugo wrote about his experiences in the Jardin des Plantes in L’Art d’Etre Grand-Père, as he took frequent strolls with his grandchildren Georges and Jeanne (see link). As Hugo described, “I go to this garden because it is pleasing/To Jeanne, and that I am helpless against her/  I go there to study two chasms: God and childhood.”

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In the ten chapters “Jardin des Plantes”, Hugo focuses on the Creator, God, and how our observations of his creation cause us to tremble and shake at its magnificence: The Great Creator who could, “cure the rainbow over the ocean that he tames” would also create a varied species from the tiniest hummingbird to the massive mastodon! I have spent the past year translating this treasure of beautiful poems from French into English to share with my grandson, George! (see link)

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The “massive Diplodocus” in Galerie d’Evolution, Jardin des Plantes, 2016

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I was first introduced to the genius of Victor Hugo in 1995.  My husband and I were celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary in New York City and we went to see the Broadway musical Les Miserables. By the end of the performance, tears streaming down our faces, we couldn’t move; we were spellbound.  This story of grace, forgiveness, love and redemption touched our hearts.

Les Miserables was based on Hugo’s famous novel of the same name and chronicles the history of Post-Revolution Paris and France from 1815 through 1832.  This 1500+ page tome examines the harsh consequences of breaking the law tempered with divine grace of redemption.  Weaved into this story of romantic and familial love is Hugo’s view of politics, philosophy, religion, war and justice. “Hugo refers to contemporary Paris in Les Miserables as:

not only the centre of civilization but the motor force of the world-historical future:  Paris est sur toute la terre le lieu ou l’on entend le mieux frissonner l’immense voilure du progrès’” (Hugo, Paris pp. 586-587).

Victor Hugo, Rodin Museum
Victor Hugo by Rodin

He also includes a descriptive detail of Paris during this time period including the architecture, parks, boulevards, and monuments. Consequently, the first thing I did when I moved to Paris in 2012 was to start reading Les Miserables , noting the boulevards, houses, monuments that Hugo details in the story and walking through them recreating this incredible homage to Paris.  To my surprise and fortune, I walked down these same streets every day to class at the Sorbonne, through the jardins , boulevards and houses of Les Miserables. In fact, it is hard to think of Paris without Hugo. My husband read the English version and I read the French version while I was living abroad for 6 months. When he came to visit, we would search out the landmarks from the story and discuss the political (David’s favorite parts) and historical  (mine) nuances of this brilliant story (and, of course, the sweet love story!). So fun!

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L’eglise Saint-Medard where Jean Valjean gave his confession
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Jardin des Luxembourg where Marius meets Cozette!
Jean Valjean escapes from Javert and hides in the Jardin des Plantes


Victor Hugo loved his Paris and translated the private affairs of literature into the public arena of culture and society.  After the Revolution, France had both a literature and a language around which a new nation could be formed.  The reading habits and prestige of literature changed when 95% of Parisians became literate.  Writers were no longer dependent upon patrons to support them and their work. Instead they became dependent upon publishers who marketed their works and upon schools which chose literature to educate their students. Writers in the nineteenth century were rare in their profession in a sociological sense because they were not technically considered working class or peasants, bourgeoisie or bureaucrats; however, they helped shape the norms, values and behavior of society.  These societal changes opened the doors for writers such as Hugo to take an important leadership role in France.

In her book Literary France, Clark claims that, “Only France has a literary culture that elects the writer as spokesman and invests literature with such powers”.(see link) Clark adds: “For literature to exist, cultural, economic and political elements must interact”.  The nineteenth century writers Zola, Hugo, Rousseau “fused the public world of country with the private word of belief “(9).

As a writer, Hugo wanted to revolutionize literature by “revolutionizing language” (Ravise, 21).  He had a considerable vocabulary, perfect knowledge of the language, with an overflowing imagination and incomparable splendor in his images.  Hugo exemplified how literary culture is contained in a social group that affects many individuals who may otherwise have little in common. This has become very relevant to me as my blog posts on Balzac, Hugo, Voltaire, Hemingway and Twain have connected me to a worldwide literary culture which I would not have interacted with otherwise.

In addition to his two famous novels, Les Miserables  and Notre Dame de Paris, Hugo wrote shorter stories and principal works :  Les Orientales, Les Chatiments, Les Contemplations, La Legende des siecles, Chansons des rues et des bois, L’Art d’etre grand-père. Hernani is the most well-known of these works and is a story of the battle between les Anciens (classics) and les Modernes (romantics). In Hernani, Hugo applies the rules of the new dramatic theater: there is much action and everyone dies in the end!

My backyard, Arenes du Lutece


As a statesman, Victor Hugo did much to raise money and preserve the monuments and parks of his beloved Paris.  He led the movement to repair the Arenes de Lutece, an ancient Roman amphitheater built in 1100, and most importantly, to save the Notre Dame Cathedral from destruction.  Victor Hugo began writing Notre-Dame de Paris (better known in the U.S. as  The Hunchback of Notre Dame) in 1829  to not only make the French aware of this incredible Gothic landmark which had been neglected but also to raise funds to repair it to its original architecture (see link).  Hugo published Notre-Dame de Paris six months after the restoration of the Cathedral was completed. I am very thankful that Hugo led this charge as the Notre Dame was my church home and respite of worship while I lived in Paris.

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Christmas Eve Mass Notre Dame Cathedral

Hugo’s last words were, “To love is to act”.  In Les Miserables, Hugo stages the events following the Revolution on the steps of the Pantheon following the death of General Lamarque, 5 June, 1832.  Fifty years later, Hugo would be buried in the same Pantheon with a funeral procession of more than 2 million people.

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Hugo’s funeral procession and burial in the Pantheon


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Hugo’s home Place des Voges


Victor Hugo spent his last years as a National Hero, living on Avenue d’Eylau, now Ave. Victor Hugo.  Before this, 1832-1848, he lived at 6 Place des Voges in the Marais section of Paris, which is now the Museum Maison de Victor Hugo.  I would highly recommend visiting his home on your next trip to Paris to see his original manuscripts, paintings, and furniture including his writing desk.  One of his most famous poems is displayed in his bedroom and is an ode to his daughter who accidentally drowned in the Seine.  The poem describes a visit to Léopoldine Hugo’s grave: :

Tomorrow at Day Break

“Tomorrow, at dawn, the moment the countryside is whitened, I will leave./…You see, I know that you wait for me./…I will go through the forest, I will go across the mountains./…I cannot stay far from you any longer./…I will trudge on, my eyes fixed on my thoughts,/…Without seeing what is outside, without hearing a single sound,/…Alone, unknown, back bent, hands crossed,/…Sad, and the day for me will be like the night./…I will not look upon the gold of nightfall, Nor the sails from afar that descend on Harfleur,/…And when I arrive, I will place on your grave/…
A bouquet of green holly and heather in bloom.”


Copyright 2018 by Robyn Lowrie.  May be quoted in part or full only with attribution to Robyn Lowrie (


Clark, Priscilla P.  Literary France. The Making of a Culture ( University of California Press, 1987),

Pendergast, Christopher.  Paris and the Nineteenth Century. Blackwell Press: Oxford, 1995

Ravise, J. Suzanne.  Tableaux culturels de la France.NTC Publishing, 1995

Further Reading on Victor Hugo: